| Date | 6/7/2003 - 10:25 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | Maria |
| maria@astarradesigns.com | |
| Site | Dayzed & Confuzed (A weblog) |
| My Training Tip/s | My cat was very destructive with his claws, until by accident we found out that he enjoys clawing cardboard boxes! We were moving and had boxes packed. He clawed them to ribbons, and stopped clawing the furniture and walls. So now I buy him the cardboard scratch boxes! He rips them to shreds, but he never touches his claws to anything else in the house! Somehow he knew that the scratch boxes were meant for him, and he has never even had the desire to claw anything else again!! I am so glad because Sebastian is my world, and there was no way I could ever submit him to the horror of amputation!! Even if we hadn't found a good solution like we did, I would never have had him declawed!!! I'm his Mom for goodness sakes! He expects me to protect him, not to send him into some brutal surgery! |
| Date | 2/24/2003 - 11:44 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | Angela Ruben |
| kwean@tyler.net | |
| Site | Don't Declaw Get StickyPaws |
| My Training Tip/s | Use stickypaws on your furniture, carpets, drapes, anywhere you don't want kitty to be. It is safe "NON-TOXIC" odorless, and no sticky residue. |
| Date | 9/20/2002 - 12:27 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Maurice |
| topcat2@comcast.net | |
| Site | TopCat Scratching Post |
| My Training Tip/s | Eric, Thanks for your comments on our TopCat scratching post. We receive e-mails each week with positive comments like yours. We are strongly apposed to declawing and as a result, spent a lot of time designing a scratching post that would really work. With the hundreds of posts we have sold, not one has been returned because a cat refused to scratch it. I invite anyone who is interested to visit our web site at: http://www.topcatproducts.com. Thanks. |
| Date | 8/24/2002 - 1:06 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Mary |
| feralcat_@hotmail.com | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | See, I don't really believe in catnip either, it's just like marijuana. I like for my cats to be themselves not hyper or somber on catpot. I have one scratching post and two cardboard scratchers (they came with catpot but I dumped it out and they still use it just fine). I also use the water bottle method. I've got my cats trained so well that all I have to do is pick up the bottle and they run. Half the time the bottle doesn't have anything in it. They seem to associate that bottle for a nice wet squirt on the bottom and they stop misbehaving. It only takes nailing a cat with water a few times for them to understand that they're doing something wrong. Water doesn't hurt, declawing does. |
| Date | 8/11/2002 - 9:19 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Helen Miles |
| helen.miles@virgin.net | |
| Site | LIFELINE |
| My Training Tip/s | Liberal supplies of catnip scattered all over the scratching posts works wonders for encouraging a cat to claw in the appropriate place. My (very sharp clawed) fully clawed cat moved into a new house with me recently and was presented with new scratching posts. The application of catnip worked wonders, and as well as getting thoroughly stoned out of his kitty mind, he has been using the posts with much gusto.:) |
| Date | 7/3/2002 - 10:39 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | Brooke |
| bubbafish52525@excite.com | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | The best training tip I can give you for cats scratching on chairs, jumping on tables, etc. is when you see your cat(s) scratching or up on a table, spray them with water until they run away. Repeat this process every time they disobey. It is sure to work!!! I received this tip from my friend who has had many cats over the years. I tryed it, and it did work for me, so it should for you. Good luck! |
| Date | 5/8/2002 - 2:07 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | Patricia Kruebbe |
| 2many@cox.net | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | I find that if my inside cats get a taste of outside, even if that is in an enclosure, they do not scratch the furniture. They rather go out and scratch the tree trunk I have in the enclosure. I also keep 3 scratching posts throughout the house and statigically place them at the end of the hallway, behind a favorite chair and by their favorite window. I have a brand new sofa that replaced one I had before that was ten years old. The old one was just worn out, but wasn't torn up by cat claws. The new one is scratched occasionally, but upon correction from me the behavior stops. I also have used soft paws on my one cat who insisted on scratching the new sofa. However, I think because she couldn't dig in the soft paws deterred her and now she has stopped the behavior. I have also used sticky paws on wallpaper and it worked wonderfully. After one try, they stop the behavior. There is no need to declaw, it's just laziness on the part of the pet owner. By the way, I have 11 cats. I also |
| Date | 5/1/2002 - 2:03 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Eric |
| drbw@comcast.net | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | I have two great cat's that I adopted from a rescue organization in Tennessee. I have had them for 2 years and was pretty much resigned to the fact that were eventually going to destroy one of the chairs in my living room. In desperation I purchased a sisal scratching post that was similiar to the Felix post you mentioned in your article on de-clawing. The result was amazing. Kelly and Tucker stopped scratching the furniture and have become really attached to their new scratching post. (Their pictures are on the Topcat products web site). This is well worth a try. The supplier has a web site at: http://www.topcatproducts.com. Hope this has been helpful. |
| Date | 5/1/2002 - 2:01 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Eric |
| drbw@comcast.net | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | I have two great cat's that I adopted from a rescue organization in Tennessee. I have had them for 2 years and was pretty much resigned to the fact that were eventually going to destroy one of the chairs in my living room. In desperation I purchased a sisal scratching post that was similiar to the Felix post you mentioned in your article on de-clawing. The result was amazing. Kelly and Tucker stopped scratching the furniture and have become really attached to their new scratching post. (Their pictures are on the Topcat products web site). This is well worth a try. The supplier has a web site at: http://topcatproducts.com. Hope this has been helpful. |
| Date | 4/26/2002 - 11:45 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | Cassandra Haskins |
| dogmom68@hotmail.com | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | I have two cats Diva a cute cuddly black female mutt who loves a paper bag to roll in, and Jenna the snobby, bratty calico female. My favorite training method is to have MANY toys ( I am constantly tripping over them) and a scraching post for each cat. I cover the posts two to three times a week with catnip and I keep a squirt bottle handy at all times. If you see your cat scratching something innappropriate shoot away and if they are scratching thier post tell them what good kitty's they are. I have owned and fostered many cat's in my life and this method is the best by far. Contrary to popular belief cat's are very trainable. |
| Date | 4/13/2002 - 3:08 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | LynxGirl |
| namelessone@email.com | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | Wrapping the cat up in a small tolw, only with the head and the foot that you are trimming the claws exposed reduces the cats stress and reduces the scratches you get from cutting your cats claws. Also, I find that on my cat i only need to cut the back claws every 5 or 6 times i cut the front claws. |
| Date | 10/9/2001 - 9:08 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Kittie |
| Site | Great Site!!!! |
| My Training Tip/s | I have an adorable ragdoll named Fluffer who constantly ripped up my leather chair! what a nightmare! While I was web surfing I stumbled upon a site that used nail caps to cover cats nails and its really simple and works great!! Fluffer never rips my furniture now and his nails look really cute in blue! :) |
| Date | 5/21/2001 - 2:03 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Bonnie Pemberton |
| kittichik@aol.com | |
| Site | Sticky Paws For Furniture |
| My Training Tip/s | Sticky Paws For Furniture is a wonderful, effective, humane way to keep your kitty in tact as well as your furniture. We have recieved the seal of approval from the ASPCA and are widely carried in all major pet stores. We believe Sticky Paws is the only effective way to stop declawing currently in the market. Give it a try....it's a product we're very proud of. For more info...go to www.stickypaws.com |
| Date | 2/24/2001 - 2:28 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | katierabbit |
| PO273337@msn.com | |
| Site | Mad Hatter's Nut House - Forum is Catty Tails |
| My Training Tip/s | This isn't really a tip, but I thought it was important enough to tell you about what I thought and now think about declawing. I always though it was just removing the nail, which has happened to me and, I am sure, to others in accidents. However, when I saw the photos of the declawing process and found out that the tip of the joint is actually being cut off.......... Never would I let that be done to my Rabbit. She loves and trusts me; she pets me constantly and talks and we have such a loving relationship....... no way, no how, no time ever would I do that to my kitty. In fact, I just put her in my lap and she lets me cut her nails with no problems. That's because of the trust factor.......... so my hint would be "Treat your pet like you would your child; love it unconditionally!" Thank you all for the info on declawing! |
| Date | 11/13/2000 - 4:29 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Tony DiGiovanni |
| antony.digiovanni@hq.doe.gov | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | Afrer several different scratching posts failed my brother bought an inexpensive device for his cat to claw at. Picture a corrugated cardboard box cut into strips 3 inches wide and 10 inches long. The strips are stacked together with the 3 inch sides face-to-face, then turned up on edge so the widths of the strips face up (and down). Enough strips are stacked so that when turned up on edge they fit inside a 10 inch by 10 inch wooden frame, with about 2 inches of the 3 inch "height" is above the frame. The frame and cardboard is attached to another piece of wood at an slight angle so that when the whole thing is placed on the floor there is a noticable front side. This device was accepted by the cat and worked well. After awhile the "ripples" of the corrugated cardboard wore out. My brother simply cut-to-fit more pieces of cardboard to replace the used up cardboard; the frame is reusable. To ancourage use, catnip is sprinkled inside the corrugated cardboard ripples. |
| Date | 7/23/2000 - 9:37 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | Garry & Serra Garske |
| garrynserra@msn.com | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | www.softpaws.com a great alternative to declawing that still takes away the pains of scratching and saves your furniture. |
| Date | 2/27/2000 - 9:39 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | hammydog |
| pmwp@ragingbull.com | |
| Site | nontoxic cleaning tips |
| My Training Tip/s | if your kittycat likes to scratch side of couch and seems to have a favorite spot..you can buy some wide adhesive tape with the sticky side on outside.. ps it might be my imagination,but if you get furniture you don't like,some cats won't bother scratching it..I had a couch I couldn't stand and my cats wouldn't touch it..I had one I loved, and when Pumps got mad at me,she would scratch it and scratch it while staring dead at me.. |
| Date | 2/21/2000 - 10:04 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | Sandy Aldrich |
| fabrice@sprintmail.com | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | I have 9 cats in my house at the present time. I am a rescue person so 2 of the cats I have are fosters and feral. Some cats will allow you to clip their claws and it is easy. Only 1 or 2 of mine are easy! I need someone else to hold most of them while I clip. One or 2 will allow me to do it easily when they are half asleep, very drowsy. One of these is a Bengal male and it is impossible for even 2 people to hold him if he is not sleepy. They are all very tame (except the ferals) and yet they hate to have their claws done. When we are able to hold them we sometimes have to grab the scruff of the neck to subdue them. This will work with most cats. I have one though, which cannot be subdued this way. She is a very tame bengal, handled from birth. I have had her since 8 wks of age. It has always been a fight to do her claws. I have a device called a bathe and carry. I bought it from a pet supply catalogue. It is a constraint device for bathing or medicating difficult cats. It is mostly plastic covered wire, widely spaced enough to allow your hand access, but not the cats head. I pull Juliette's legs out 1 by 1 and clip. She still fights like a tiger but cannot bite or scratch me! As far as my furniture goes with all these claws in my house, it is pretty OK. I have several scratching posts, karate cat. I also have 2 cat trees. Always get sisal not just carpet, cats prefer it. I have some wicker in my house. If you have cats you better hide your wicker because they find it irresistable! Also, bring the scratching post home when you get the cat because they are creatures of habit and you don't want them to get a bad habit with your couch. |
| Date | 11/10/1999 - 7:19 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Anne K. McMullen |
| akmcmullen@email.msn.com | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | My two cats will be 10 years old in the spring. I clip the cats claws about every 2 weeks. We do not have much of a clawing problem. At one time, we did. I had just bought a new recliner and against my wishes, the store had sprayed it with Scotch Guard. At that time, one of the main ingredients in Scotch Guard was fish oil. Both of the cats quickly destroyed that chair and I really can't blame them too much since it smelled so wonderful to them. (By the way, Scotch Guard is no longer made from fish oil.) Unfortunately, once the chair was gone, they had decided to use the couch as well. Previous to this, they had used the scratching post. I got them to stop using the couch by a combination of a new scratching toy and a brocade couch slip cover. They didn't like the smooth feel of the brocade and they really liked their new toy. This is a great toy. It is a ring with a ball that they can bat around. In the center of the ring is a cardboard circle which is more pleasant to scratch that the brocade. Even after 7 years, that is their favorite toy! |
| Date | 7/28/1999 - 9:12 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | Barb Peresta |
| bperesta@neo.rr.com | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | I have a blue/cream domestic shorthair (I thought she was part Russian Blue; but, a snobby breeder said, "No way!". When I found her, she was a stray of less than a year old. She has the sweetest temperament and has yet to do any serious or noticeable damage with her clawing. Once I closed the window sheers too much and she had a problem getting into her window seat and left a snag in the sheer which I was able to repair. She does act like she is clawing; but, I shout at her, clap my hands or even squirt her with a small water pistol and she gets the idea that I mean for her to stop. I trim her claws once a week after I brush her by wrapping her in a towel and pulling out one paw at a time for trimming, all the while I am talking to her sweetly and reassuringly. After all of them are trimmed, I finish with some more gentle brushing, a treat and lots of praise. Good Kitty! She is the best! I will not take the chance of having her temperament or behavior change through declawing. I'm even thinking of buying one of those huge treehouse scratching posts with the $100 it would have cost for the declawing. |
| Date | 6/23/1999 - 11:52 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | madlyn |
| luvcatz@geocities.com | |
| Site | Luvcatz Spokescatz |
| My Training Tip/s | I am adding this to my 'alternatives to declaw' site today at http://www.geocities.com/~luvcatz/declaw.html. I thought I would share this with everyone here, in the interest of saving every claw possible :) Another deterrent that works very well as a training aid is Best Behavior™. It is a safe, non-toxic and totally odorless spray that you apply to any area where your cat is chewing or scratching. To quote, Best Behavior™ "Works on the proven principle that undesirable behavior stops when it produces unpleasant consequences". The spray has a 'bitter apple' flavor which your cat then associates with the scent of the treated area, and avoids. At the same time that you spray your furniture or carpeting, you must also give your cat a 'taste' of the product by pressing his mouth to the sprayed area. For the best results, reinforce by giving your cat another taste of the product several times a week, for 2-3 weeks. It is not necessary to re-apply the spray to furniture and carpeting, however. I tasted the product myself, and it is indeed very bitter and unpleasant. Pets 'N People, the company that produces both Nature's Miracle™ and Best Behavior™, stand behind their products 100%, and guarantee results or your money will be refunded. You cannot find Pets 'N People on the internet currently, but a website is in their future plans. For more information on any of their products refer to the product label or please call one of their very friendly and helpful company representatives at (310) 544-7125. I hope this helps someone. One taste of this stuff is enough to make me never lick my fingers again! :) Madlyn |
| Date | 5/21/1999 - 1:54 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Gracie |
| lwill@renegadeisp.com | |
| Site | Katkneader's Korner |
| My Training Tip/s | Making claw clipping easier: We wait til our cat is a little dozy, then my husband picks her up, holds her against his chest, his hand under her against her chest, and his other hand so that she is "sitting" on his other hand/arm. He holds snugly and then I come along and take each paw and clip the nails and she doesn't even notice. She just thinks she is being held (which she loves). My dad used to train his kittens from day one. He would lay the kitten on it's back in his lap and "pinch" it's feet one by one. The cat would get used to this position and the feeling of having his/her feet handled so the clipping part was easy. |
| Date | 5/16/1999 - 7:25 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | Megan |
| zuzu22@webtv.net | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | I bought a roll of clear contact paper from WalMart for about $5.I cut pieces to fit the areas of furniture that were being scratched,peeled the backing off and stuck it right to the furniture.The cats don't like the smooth feel of the contact paper and they haven't scratched the furniture since and I was eventually able to remove it entirely.It's also nice because the contact paper has a matte finish and doesn't show. |
| Date | 5/8/1999 - 8:10 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Val2 |
| dvde@pitnet.net | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | My cat Fran seems to like to claw at the carpet where it meets wood or linoleum, and he's kinda destroying it. I've tried putting towels there, but he just pushes them away and claws at the edge anyway. So I came up with an idea. To keep my cats from tearing at the carpet edge where it is tacked down in the doorways or between rooms, I taped the whole edge of carpet with duct tape. They don't like the smooth feel and don't bother the carpet at the edges anymore. It might look silly, but I figure if I expect company I can easily pull off the tape and just throw it away until they leave. Works for me, might work for others. |
| Date | 4/14/1999 - 8:35 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | Elizabeth |
| pawsplus@geocities.com | |
| Site | The Wonder-Cats |
| My Training Tip/s | Get a Felix post! This is the scratching post recommended by Anitra Frazier in *Natural Cat* (get this book, too, as it's the best argument against declawing, along with great ideas for preventing scratching problems and redirecting scratching). The Felix post is addictive. Even my Gabriel, who was declawed in front by his former owners, uses it religiously. Impregnated with catnip, it's pretty irresistable. It's also tall, covered with sisal fabric (NOT rope), and very stable. Frazier provides info. on purchasing the post in her book, but it's usually available at cat specialty shops. |
| Date | 4/12/1999 - 9:02 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Kristi |
| kristijamie@sprint.ca | |
| Site | Dem Beans! Beanie Babies |
| My Training Tip/s | My methods are much like everyone here's. However I found something that works very well. I have 4 cats, 2 boy and 2 girls, all fixed of course! The oldest is 9 and the youngest is 2 1/2. I've found a great way to train a cat NOT to do something (whether it be scratching furniture, jumping on tables or counters or opening cupboards) is to keep a small spray bottle with a moderating spray tip handy. Fill it with water and depending on how far away you are, adjust the tip for distance. Then spray! Most cats have a distinct fear of water, even those that don't are not fond of surprises. A squirt of water at them or a mist to their faces is very unwelcome. I have effectively taught my cats to stay off of the counters, tables and anywhere else they shouldn't be using this method. Important!: Be sure not to use a bottle that has been filled with hair spray or any cleaning product, no matter how well you clean, chemicals stay behind in the plastic! You could harm your cat. You can get a small spray bottle at the local store for about $2. Other things I have done to impede naughty behaviour: -Elastic/rubber bands around the cupboard handles-they get tired of doing it if it doesn't work, keep their food up high. -Catnip on scratching posts or toys-a long time favorite -If the cat is caught scratching, remove them from the spot, say "No", then place their paws on the scratching post and move them up and down-they get the idea -Never, ever reprimand a cat after they have left the "scene of the crime"-they will not associate the bad behaviour to the reprimand, do it only if they haven't left the spot -Apple, cider or citrus bitters on the things they like to chew (plants) or scratch-cats hate these smells and will steer clear of them, sprays can be found at your pet store -Talk to your cats-believe it or not they do understand you, I have heard my cat make sounds that mimic what I say to him -If your cat bites you while you're petting or playing with them-place your thumb in front of their mouth and forefinger below their chin-when they bite gently pinch their lower jaw, they hate this and will learn not to bite, after doing this put them down or push them away, it will signal disapproval to them -If your cat soils the house-remove any soiled items and clean the area immediately, do not use Dettol-despite the strong smell cats are attracted to it, try to use a scent they don't like (bitters sprays) These are a few tricks I have learned over the years. I hope they may have helped you out. |
| Date | 3/25/1999 - 6:22 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Cat |
| gatos@catlover.com | |
| Site | Ren's Cat Page |
| My Training Tip/s | First I would like to say that, my cats are more importent to me then any furniture.I would rather see my furniture distroyed then have my babies declawed.What has really worked well for me is,I put catnip on all the scraching posts.The guys just love it! Very seldom do they ever claw anything. I have had cats for many years and have yet to have one ruin anything |
| Date | 2/9/1999 - 3:15 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | Maus |
| eris@advanix.net | |
| Site | Maus' Place |
| My Training Tip/s | Cutting Nails: When cutting nails it helps a lot to softly talk to
the cat (I talk mine "drunk"...). Hold her firm on your lap or whatever
comfortable position, grab the paw firmly and push a little to get the
claws exposed. Rather cut more often than too much!!!! As soon as the
cat struggles let her go. When you start out you may have to work one
nail at a time, that's ok. Your cat will soon get used to it, even if
she may not like it. Praise a lot! Backfeet are usually a lot more
ticklish |
| Date | 2/8/1999 - 4:24 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | KimL |
| kiml@exis.net | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | This one comes from my Mom - she swears it works and one other person has tried with success too. Tape saran/plastic wrap on the sides of the furniture kitty scratches on. They won't go near it. And at first glance your guests might not even notice it or it's easy to whip off when company comes and put right back on. We used any kind of tape handy. I haven't checked the page so I don't know if this is a new idea or not. Kim |
| Date | 2/8/1999 - 4:05 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | luvcatz99 |
| jlcoop@gateway.net | |
| Site | BOYS HOME |
| My Training Tip/s | As soon as my cats started to scratch the furniture, I would pick them up and move them to the scratching post. I would actually scratch the post myself with my fingernails and they would do the same. Rub catnip on the post too. If the cat insists on scratching somewhere you don't want them to, spray the surface with bitter apple or "Cat-Away". This will deter them for a couple hours in my cat's case. But, it will work over time. Patience, patience, and more patience. Cats do learn where it is acceptable to scratch! |
| Date | 2/8/1999 - 3:27 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | axl |
| hokus@angelfire.com | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | We have scratching posts in four of our rooms. They are within easy reach at all times. I praise them when I see them scratching on the posts. A bit of catnip on the posts every few weeks helps too. |
| Date | 11/8/1998 - 5:52 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Roberta Cubbin |
| FurPurr@hotmail.com | |
| Site | Comfy Creatures Pawfessional Petsitting |
| My Training Tip/s | I have written cat training information that may be helpful. Check out the website listed above. Hope it is helpful to someone!! Roberta >^..^< |
| Date | 10/22/1998 - 8:17 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | heather |
| bmovie@aros.net | |
| Site | The TailChasers |
| My Training Tip/s | My cats also love the Turbo Scratcher, mentioned below. We've had it for over a year now and gone through many cardboard refills, but it's sooo worth it! |
| Date | 10/20/1998 - 2:09 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Sharon Golding |
| sharongolding@sprynet.com | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | PetsMart sells a toy called Turbo Scratcher that my cats adore. The toy is a ball that goes around a track, and in the center of the track is a cardboard scratching area. The toy comes with catnip to drop in the cardboard scratching area, and I use a catnip spray every now and then to encourage my cats to use it. Of all the zillions of toys that we have bought our cats, this seems to be their favorite, and it encourages them to scratch on something other than the furniture. |
| Date | 10/17/1998 - 11:36 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | Cat |
| manimal@psci.net | |
| Site | The first one is Cat World the second is Meow City |
| My Training Tip/s | I have solved the problem in the simplest way. I no longer have the Salvation Army refuse my furniture because of the artistic works of my lovable Feline Friends. I work for a paper corregator but I won't go into the long drawn out story. The product I thought I invented is already on the market and Cats LOVE it!! It is a legth of corregated-[cardboard} called a build up. It will cost roughly five dollars at Wal-Mart-thats where I found it!- and it is called Cat Scratcher. Made by "http://www,worldwise.com". It is just several layers of cardboard-we know how our babies LOVE cardboard!-and they are glued together in one inch strips to form a section about 6 inches wide by two feet long. The store bought model comes already imbedded with catnip-a very good brand by my Cats attitude-and the most you will have to do is scratch on it to get them going. I replace theirs once every two months-two extremly large and scratchy Cats-No more excuses! No one needs to declaw ever! The only time they ever touch the furniture is when I have made them angry over something. Then it is only as a threat to me. I have addicted five new Cat owners because this is such a fun thing the Cats just adore it! Please try this! It works even better than sisal-which never worked for my two ruffians!! There is no need to put your Cat through the agony of decawing. Honest!! |
| Date | 10/4/1998 - 6:28 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | L.A. Tyler |
| verdilinux@aol.com | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | Basically, you have to provide them with a scratching post that is niftier to them than your furniture. Most posts that you can buy at pet stores do not fit the bill. They are too short and tip over too easily. You can secure the post under your furniture if you can't find anything else, but ideally, you would acquire one tall enough that the cat can stretch its body fully as it scratches, and is made of a nice, heavy, reasonably thick rope. The base should be heavy so that the post does not fall down as the cat scratches. This will only frighten her away from using the post. Also, teach the cat the term for "scratching post" (and you will probably find it helpful to teach it other terms, too, such as "litter box"). It's easy. Just pat the post often, always repeating the term. (Cats are smarter than you might think.) When my cats were using the sofa instead of their posts, I found that by telling them firmly, "No, no. Use your SCRATCHING POST!" that the cat would obey. I almost fainted the first time, and I thought it was just coincidence, but it worked consistently and so effectively that the cats no longer transgress, although I continue to praise them for using the post, employing the vocabulary the cat has learned. My cats, by the way, are tamed ferals. I trapped them, brought them inside, and after weeks, months of patience, love and care, I persuaded them that life indoors isn't half-bad. In my view, if a cat that was feral until it was approximately nine months old can learn to use a scratching post, virtually any cat can. |
| Date | 9/14/1998 - 6:38 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | lv |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | Another tip is if your cat seems to prefer a certain fabric, try to find a scratching post as close to that fabric as possible. |
| Date | 9/7/1998 - 5:12 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | mc |
| abelar@webtv.net | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | I have found that the honeycombed cardboard rectangular boxes that cats can stand on and stabilize so they can really dig in are very good particularly when liberally doused with catnip. Cat Claws is the original brand but there are plenty of others around now. |
| Date | 9/6/1998 - 3:09 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Ginger-lyn Summer |
| glsummer@earthlink.net | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | I have found a combination of things to work pretty well for my five cats. I have a very tall scratching post; cats need a scratching post tall enough that they can completely stretch out, or else they may not use it. I also have a mulberry tree log; they adore standing on top of it and scratching on it. Also, to make claw trimming easier, I've used the Pavlovian response to help: 98% of the time, I give them catnip after trimming their claws. |
| Date | 9/6/1998 - 7:22 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | heathers |
| hmonson@writeme.com | |
| Site | animal house |
| My Training Tip/s | Not really a tip here, just encouragement for those who hate or have trouble trimming claws. Kitten nails grow very quickly and need trimming often, but as adults they grow much more slowly. I need to trim kittens once a week but I can let adults go 2-3 weeks without getting 'lethal'. Also after repeated trimmings the 'quick' (pink portion of the claw) slowly becomes smaller so you can actually trim farther back without harming the cat. This is also helpful for keeping the frequency of trimmings down. |
| Date | 9/5/1998 - 11:19 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | Christy |
| christy@charybdis.com | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | I have found that double-sided tape is a wonderful deterrent when you can't be there to moniter the situation. We add and remove it at random times (when they aren't looking) to keep them guessing. |
| Date | 9/5/1998 - 6:54 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | Warfie |
| bwarf@norlink.net | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | Has anyone suggested just taping some tin foil or plastice wrap to the area? They say that after a few months that it can be removed. I haven't been lucky that way, but she doesn't scratch when the foil is in place. It looks funny, but is easy to remove when company comes. Also, spraying the area with a mixture of Dettol and water works as well. Even after we can't smell it, they can. Just make sure it won't stain your furniture before you apply it big time! |
| Date | 9/5/1998 - 5:32 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | Sharon Straight |
| SJStraight@aol.com | |
| Site | Help Save The Animals. |
| My Training Tip/s | For clipping small kittens nails the easiest thing to use is regular nail clippers, for finger nails not toe nails. For older ones we used regular dog nail clippers. If they are trained from small kittens they are used to it. I would just hold them in my lap. You only really have to take the sharp tip off. As far as scratching, we have never had our furniture scratched in all the years we have owned cats. In Hawaii we raised Siamese and American Shorthair cats for about 7 years. The cats were not normally in cages, and when they were they went from floor to ceiling and were large enough for half a dozen people to be in or more. This is where they had their floor to ceiling scratching post. But when they had the run of the house we had cardboard scratching posts. These were about 24" long and about 6" wide with packed tightly strips of cardboard. Sort of hard to describe, but it would be like the side of a box, that kind of strip, not flat. They loved them. If you want to see cats and kittens have fun, place a small cardboard box in the room. They love jumping in and out and fliping the box over. Another thing is a large paper bag, they love playing in them. When they have fun things to do, you have less chance of them getting into trouble. We have never had to use water or put any thing on or over our furniture. |
| Date | 9/4/1998 - 9:34 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Cyara |
| kitrz@fiaaz.net | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | I used duct tape, a squirt bottle, and several cat-nip treated scratching posts to encourage my cat to leave the furniture alone. If you have greay or blue gray furniture, put duct tape where kitty likes to scratch. Kitty's don't seem to like the feel of the fibers in the tape, and if you use the squirt bottle when you can catch them, it can work well. The only problem with duct tape is that when you remove it, it leaves behind a sticky residue. But if you really don't care how the furniture looks (or if it was cheap), then give it a shot. |
| Date | 9/4/1998 - 3:05 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Jill Collins |
| kristy@sympatico.ca | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | I found that sprinkling catnip on cat scratch posts helps to get them to use it...of course anytime you see them scratching something, pick them up and place them on the scratch post. Some people have said the spritzing them with water when they are clawing furniture etc. deters them,,haven't tried that one. As for clipping nails; it is good to get a cat accepting of this when young...if it's an older cat, placing it wrapped up in a towel (gently) with the paws placed outside the towel, makes it easier to do...even covering the cats face (gently) with the towel helps in that the cat doesn't see what is being done, and you won't get nipped!! Also, using noises cats don't like...if you see kitty clawing something, crumple up some tin foil, plastic bags, anything your kitty may find hard on the ears..it will associate the noise with it's "clawing". That's about it..hopefully something here will help. |
| Date | 9/4/1998 - 2:42 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Shani's Lynn |
| Rivilies@aol.com | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | Show your kitty how to scratch it's scratching post by running your fingernails down the scratching post. Make a lot of noise when doing this. Also,have at least 1 scratching post in each room that has good furniture and have different types of scratching posts. |
| Date | 9/4/1998 - 11:48 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | Agatha Kitty |
| kimlance@angelfire.com | |
| Site | Kitten care/supplemental feeding |
| My Training Tip/s | Claw trimming hints: Trim the nails while the cat is napping, after he has eaten. Do not force the trimming on the cat--if he gets upset, let him go and try again later when he is calm. You can always take him to a groomer or PetSmart (nail trim $3.00, what a deal!) while you are training the cat to tolerate nail trimming. If you have a partner that can hold the cat (I usually flip them onto their backs on my lap, yes they let me do that), that helps a lot. Also the partner can rub the cat's head and praise them while the other person extends the claws and clips them. Do the act of trimming the nails very often at first--maybe once a day or week at first. You don't actually need to do real trimming, just do the act of extending the nail and touching the end of the nail with the clippers if they don't need trimming. Follow the nail trim session with praise and a kitty treat--actually just give him a piece of dry cat food--it is cheaper and healthier, and they get just as excited. My Agatha Kitty is very well-behaved during nail trims. That is a huge relief because she is polydactyl (she has extra toes) so we have to twist her little paw every which way to get to the nail that grows right between her toes, plus she has four extra nails to cut, which have the risk to become ingrown. You wouldn't believe what she puts up with! I think it is because she knows that she will get a treat at the end that she is so patient. |
| Date | 9/3/1998 - 8:31 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Jo |
| jusjo5@webtv.net | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | To keep kitties from scratching your sofa. Buy or build a scratching post the same height as the sofa. Put it next to the sofa so the kitty can't touch the sofa but has a place to scratch right next to it. |
| Date | 9/3/1998 - 4:43 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | barbntux |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | BUY A"TURBO SCRATCHER"!TUX LOOOVES IT AND LEAVES MY FURNITURE ALONE! |
| Date | 9/3/1998 - 4:01 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Jane |
| garfield@epix.net | |
| Site | Jane's Bus Stop Coffee Shop |
| My Training Tip/s | My best training tool is a small squirt bottle filled with water. When the cats attempt to scratch furniture, jump up where they don't belong or anthing like that, they get a little squirt of water. You must do it immediately upon seeing the bad behavior...don't wait even a few minutes because the cat won't know what he did wrong. This little reminder works wonders for weeks at at time. In fact, now all I usually do is show them the bottle and make the "Pssst!" noise myself and they think they are going to get squirted so they run! |
| Date | 9/3/1998 - 3:26 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Donna |
| belnet@netinc.ca | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | You need to have a good scratching post. And show your cat how to use it. When you see your cat scratching the furniture, remove your cat and place him/her on the scratching post and place his/her paws at the top of the post and drag his/her paws down. Also, just as you see your cat about to scratch the furniture, spray him/her with water. I did it to my new kitten just as he was about to jump down from a ledge onto our kitchen table while we were eating and he scooted away. Since then, he returned to the ledge but has not tried to go on the table while we have been eating. The trick is to spray your cat as just as he/she is about to do the deed not during, after or before. You may also want to consider giving your cat one piece of furniture to scratch. It works for a few people I know, however, I have not needed to do this. If you have any tips on how to get a 3 month male kitten and a 2 year old female cat to get along, I would appreciate any advice. |
| Date | 9/3/1998 - 3:15 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Eveline |
| previka@kkoe.co.at | |
| Site | Eurocatfancy |
| My Training Tip/s | Some tips how to prevent cats from scratching on furnitures based on
instrumental conditioning a cat (takes some time but works quite
well): a) Put some alu foil strips on those furnitures you don't want the cat to scratch. As cats don't like foils they always get a bad feeling on their paws whenever they touch that furniture. And after some weeks the cats are conditioned not to scratch on that furniture and the foils can be removed. b) Put Tesa strips (the strips which you use to cover your doors, windows when painting your walls) with the downside up (the clued side up). The cat will feel then the clued side of the strip and doesn't like that feeling at all and will stop scratching on that furniture. That's an other way of conditioning your cat. After some weeks the strips can be removed. Both ways I used with my cats, to train cats is always easy when you base your training on instrumental conditioning similar to the Pawlow effect. |
| Date | 9/3/1998 - 2:01 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Janet |
| hanjan@msn.com | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | I found it wasn't so much a matter of training, when it comes to scratching, as much as it's a matter of redirection. Cat will use any surface that will allow them to sharpen their claws. I found that getting a cat tree and putting in the most open place, and another scratch post near their litter box, that the cats have not been scratching anywhere else. The tree has both carpet and rope and after they've marked it, they now go there to scratch and sharpen. I have tried to trim my cats claws, but ended up looking like the battle of waterloo. I now try to get the vet to clip them when they go in for checkups, and let the cat tree do the rest. Since my cats are out during the day, but always in at night, they need their claws. I've read that some people are worried about kitty scratching the children, or themselves. But I've found that cats only seem to scratch when they get wound up, get scared, or are startled. If you watch your cat, you can tell when they are done playing and don't want to be bothered any more. So you stop, and wait for the next signal to pat or play. People also have to think ahead and make sure that they get the right cat for their household. Kittens will be incredibly active, so don't get one if you're already trying to train children. Older cats are great for families as they are happy to have a home and will let almost anything happen to them, within reason. People need to take responsibility for watching the anmimal and see what's bothering it, what it needs, and when it's ready for you to interact with them. That's why they are infinitely more interesting than dogs, snakes, or rats. Ferrets, however, are a close second. |
| Date | 9/3/1998 - 1:00 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | Squeaker |
| hptdw@hotmail.com | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | Strapping a piece of tinfoil to the place that is being scratched always worked for me. Cat's hate the feel of tinfoil on thier paws. |
| Date | 9/3/1998 - 12:37 PM |
|---|---|
| Name | ShirleyBo |
| sbodirnea@aol.com | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | This may be too late if you already have furniture? But when buying new furniture really consider the type of fabric you choose. I had a chair that I had to almost completely cover with box tape because they just couldn't resist that fabric. Even the ones Who never scratched anything else. I have found that they do not seem to claw on the velour type of fabric or the cotton chintz (sp) or polished cotton fabrics. But if the fabic has a lot of texture or open weave they are more apt to claw. Also keep something like sisle robe posts or the cardboard catnip kind nearby and then they should choose that over the furniture. If all else fails clear Box tape will keep them from clawing. Just tape the area of the furniture that they claw. Hopefully that will stop them but that "favorite" chair ended up being total encased in tape. VBG!! |
| Date | 9/3/1998 - 11:18 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | Chat Mechant |
| polycat@earthlink.net | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | first I used 'cling wrap'duct taped on to couch. Then I got nervous about suffocation-so I used aluminum foil, duct taped on sides, and cushions of couch. EWWWWW...apparently does NOT feel good on paws. Then a cat tree (liberally covered with rubbed in catnip)and no probs. Also small scratch posts and circles discreetly placed around house.I only had trouble with one of mine-the others learned by NO. |
| Date | 9/3/1998 - 11:04 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | Erika |
| els_16@hotmail.com | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | I have had success with the put-something-sticky-where-they-like-to-scratch method. I cover the area with contact paper, sticky-side out. To hold it in place, I use straight pins around the edge, then cover the pin tops with heavy duty electrical tape. Any thick tape would do though. This prevents any kitties from removing the pins and injuring themselves. Then I place a 'constructive' scratching object near by. When I am home and observe them eyeing the sticky area, I move them to the post and take their arms and make the scratching motion. I will also take fresh catnip and rub it all over where they are supposed to be scratching. The oils will entice them over there, getting them in the habit of visiting the scratching post. I find the contact paper is easier than lots of strips of tape. It can be cut or folded around the curves of furniture. And it is a good use of all of those extra strips of contact paper left over from lining shelves and drawers. |
| Date | 9/3/1998 - 10:32 AM |
|---|---|
| Name | Julie |
| jfidrych@connix.com | |
| Site | |
| My Training Tip/s | I've found that strips of masking tape applied sticky side out work very well. My cat learned very quickly to use scratching posts this way. |
